Thursday 17 July 2014

Historical Tour - Part II

Sunset reflections
Survived the cold and decided staying an extra night was not such a bad decision after all. The cottage was quite cosy once the fire was stoked. The views were stunning, and we witnessed the most beautiful sunset and sunrise that we had ever seen.
Cloud formations at sunset
 
Such a beautiful sky.

So beautiful - worth the cold!
Sunrise over the fields
Early morning fog

With such beautiful early morning views to motivate us we decided our first full day in the area would be spent discovering some of the history surrounding this beautiful region.

Early morning view from cottage
Drive leading to cottage
Fog rising over the river
First stop - the local bakery - strange but true as this is actually where the local Information Centre is located.  Well, actually this is where visitors can collect brochures and flyers for local attractions, including detailed self-guided walking tours for Longford and Perth.

Next stop - the village of Perth.  So many of the buildings in this village are either National Trust classified or registered. The area on the banks of the South Esk River was selected and named by Governor Macquarie in 1821. By 1834 there were two hotels and eight houses and the first school was under construction. On our self-guided walking tour we passed by some very interesting cottages which were originally occupied by the mounted police force in early days of settlement; several churches and pubs, including the Leather Bottell Inn named for an old inn in Cobham, Kent (frequented by Charles Dickens) and built around 1830 as a small stone cottage. This latter building is now an antique shop but in its past life it was operated by a number of lessees and earned a dubious reputation before it was run as the local post office, then a men's shop, a private boarding house, a private residence, and a licensed restaurant - what amazing stories this building could tell!
Incorporated into the history walk around Perth is a beautiful walk along the banks of the South Esk River which is spanned by the Perth bridge. The original bridge was erected in 1836 with convict labour and was the first bluestone bridge built in Tasmania. Unfortunately that bridge was destroyed by the 1929 floods. It was rebuilt in 1931 but was again washed away in the floods of 1971. Prior to the original bridge being built the only link between the north and south areas of the island was by sea and later by a punt across the South Esk River.
So warm inside.

Muffins to die for!


History lesson over the OGO started to complain his hands and feet were now completely numb so maybe it was time for a warming coffee. Mrs OGO had already sussed out a great little coffee place in an old church built in 1838- the oldest church building in Perth. It was so cold outside that when we entered the coffee lounge not only did Mrs OGO's glasses fog up but both cameras lenses fogged over - certainly warmer inside - and the freshly baked muffin and clotted cream was to die for!!!!

Sorry couldn't wait for fog to clear
That was deeeeelish
After such a delicious coffee break we headed back to the cottage, once again stopping in the village of Longford to purchase some staple items - and Mrs OGO was desperately seeking some soothing bubble bath to enjoy a soak in the claw foot bath at the cottage - no such luck - it would appear that taking a bath is not a favourite pastime in this region! Oh, well it will just have to be bubbly in front of the fire instead of bubbles in the bath.

Our cosy convict cottage



Tuesday 8 July 2014

Historical Tour

After a relaxing week, some seriously bad weather, and a number of short walks with Billy, our next short adventure found us travelling through some very beautiful country to Longford in the midlands area of the Apple Isle.  Once again, we were without internet connection for the week so here is a 'summary' of the short adventure - the fun parts, and the not-so-fun parts.

Tuesday, 1st July to Friday, 4th July
Our little companion, Billy, was dropped off in Hobart at about 9.30am and we headed out along the Brooker Highway through the 'built-up' area north of Hobart city - sadly no stop at Cadbury's! - and out on to the Midlands Highway heading towards Launceston.  It is only 175kms from Hobart to Launceston along this highway - speed limit 110kms, so we struggle to understand why locals complain about having to drive between these two cities for appointments, etc., especially as we have to drive regularly from Toowoomba to Brisbane - 168kms, at speed limits that vary from 40kms (roadwork limits) and 100kms max speed!!!! Anyway, enough of that and back to our little adventure.

Bothwell town map
A vertical sundial
Our first stop was at BOTHWELL.  We have visited here before, in 2008, but it was a great place to take a 'pit-stop' and investigate some of the landmarks that we missed on our first visit. This little town was named in 1824 and most of the early settlers were Scots. This Scottish connection is reflected in all the street names, and the street signs are all coloured tartans. The town sits beside the Clyde River and is home to the Australasian Golf Museum. as the town lays claim to the oldest golf course in Australia - the Ratho Golf Course. Fascinating course as it is shared with flocks of sheep! There is also a very interesting sundial in the town park. It is believed to be the oldest free-standing vertical sundial in the nation. It is also very complicated to read. And for the science bods, Bothwell is the home of the world's first radio telescope. 
The Scot connection - Tartan street signs
This region is sheep country, so of course Mrs OGO had to locate the local Weavers Cottage craft shop before moving onto the next point of interest.
 We spent some time chatting with the volunteers in the local information centre, who provided us with some useful information  and pointed us in the direction of some interesting sites.

One of the most fascinating sites in the area is The Steppes. A short drive from Bothwell, high on the Great Western Tiers, we discovered some beautiful sculptures set in the forest. Bronze sculptures set on stone plinths depict some of the wildlife and history of this part of the Central Highlands. The artist, Stephen Walker, is a well known artist in Tasmania, having also created the bronze sculptures on the Hobart waterfront and the bronze whale at Cockle Creek - the most southerly point in Australia. 
Bronze wombat


Wildlife in Bronze

Birdlife in Bronze

Painted window


Steppes homestead

Forest 'critters'
Steppes Hall window
Artwork by Miss Wilson


Also in this area, a short 800m walk through the bush, or a 3 minute drive along the road, is an historic site currently under restoration.  This was the home of the Wilson family, settled in 1863, and it really has a very fascinating history.  More info can be read at this web address.
http://www.mountainhuts.com.au/the_steppes_historic_site.htm

The Central Highlands certainly has some fascinating history .  Continuing our drive to Longford we visited another very "unusual" village - Poatina.  This rather unique little village was originally built to house workers on the hydro-scheme and in 1995 the 'village' was purchased by a Christian youth and community organisation - Fusion Australia. We were a little bemused by the layout of this community village when we drove through it but fascinated to see how it flowed around a central community area.

From Poatina it is a very steep descent to Cressy and Longford, with some fabulous views over the valley. It was quite cold on the Tiers, 5 degrees, and we did actually see snow on the higher slopes, so we were quite keen to reach our destination at Woolmers Heritage Estate in Longford to warm our bodies in what we expected to be a warm cottage.  Think again buddies!

It was just after 2.30pm when we arrived at Woolmers to check in. Cold, tired and hungry after our little adventures in the Highlands, we were keen to make ourselves comfortable in our heritage cottage. 'Unfortunately', says the receptionist, ' the heating has not yet been turned on in your cottage.  I was just about to go over and do that, but you seem to have beaten me to it with your arrival'.  WHAAAAAATTT !! This is 2.35pm, check in is 2.00pm, one would expect in the middle of Winter, with temps at 5-8 degrees, that heating in a booked cottage would be turned on at least one hour before check-in time - especially for the price we were paying!!!!!!! Not so in this case.

OK - settle down Mrs OGO.  It shouldn't take long to warm up a small cottage - yeah, well think that one again - warm finally at 8pm - not a happy camper, especially as we had extended our stay for an extra night - what was I thinking.  Oh, well. Let's sleep on it and see how tomorrow pans out.